Beauty over Forty

Keeping up appearances when age is just a number


wayne goss

How to get the best out of your ABH Subculture Palette

The last days have been marked by outrage over Anastasia Beverly Hill’s new eyeshadow palette called “Subculture”. Expectations were high for this palette as the previous released “Modern Renaissance Palette” was one of the most popular palettes of last year. Announced as a sister palette to Modern Renaissance, Consumers and YouTube “Beauty Gurus” by and large expected it to be the same, albeit in a different color scheme. Quickly they discovered it is not.

There then ensued a plethora of “WTF” videos and consumers planning to return the palette before they had ever received it. This was then followed by videos theorizing about: Why???

If this is all news to you, I’d like to save you some time clicking through all the dramatic videos and direct you towards Stephanie Nicole’s which is the best informed one out there, her content will save me a lot of typing here.

So, how can you work with the palette and get good results?

  1. Prime and use a smooth powder shadow over the primer, do not have patches which are wet, they will grab pigment and wet pigment goes dark. The shade “Dawn” from the palette creates a good base from eyelid to brow bone.
  2. Use fluffy crease brushes (small, ideally natural hair if you have them, they hold color better). Flat shaders for packing color will not help, the reason why is coming up…
  3. When dipping into the shadow just let the tip of your brush graze the shadow lightly. These shadows are enormously pigmented, treat them like a pigment, if you get too much color on your brush you will have difficulties.
  4. Use your brush on your eyelid as if you are painting in light strokes, do not pack on pigment and then try to blend it out. It doesn’t work. Blending strokes will wipe the color off. Instead build color with light feathery strokes.
  5. If you are concerned about fallout use shadow shields or do your eyes first followed by your face makeup.

In the picture below which was my first attempt at using the palette I used a shadow shield, but with the progress made using as you can see dark shades, there was not a single speck of fallout using the technique I described above.


The brushes I used were a Wayne Goss no. 4 small crease brush, a Wayne Goss no. 5 detail brush and the best brush of all a small fluffy crease brush bought in German drugstore chain Rossmann for under 3 Euros by the brand “For Your Beauty”. This is quite possibly the best brush I have ever had (I have six of them). The ELF small crease brush will work just as well.




Anti-Haul: What I’m not going to buy

I love watching anti-haul videos are reading anti-haul posts. If this theme is new to you, anti-hauls are products we will not be buying and why. I find them very helpful when it comes to new launches and products which are overhyped.

Here the items which are not on my shopping list:

  1. Violet Voss: Ride or Die Palette: 42 shades and not one of them is green or a real blue. Instead: 42 variations of browns, greys, oranges and reds, one more similar than the other. This bores me
  2. Too Faced Natural Love Eyeshadow Palette: Too Faced has been pretty inconsistent recently. Their larger Holiday palettes which were limited edition did not receive good reviews. This is a larger palette which is limited edition. I somehow don’t think this one will fare well, plus I pretty much have these shades, if you own a Tarte palette you probably also do.
  3. The Anastasia Beverly Hills Nicole Guerriero Glow Kit: I am pale as a ghost. If I am lucky, maybe two shades would suit me. I don’t need the other four. The reviews are split between positive and negative on the formula. The shades are beautiful, but overall seem suited to darker skin tones and that is fabulous, about time there was a great glow kit for deeper skin tones, just not for me as I am too light.
  4. The new Wayne Goss Face Set: This almost hurts to type, I want them so badly argggh. They are beautiful, they are fabulous and they are expensive; but they are natural white hair. You are not supposed to wash natural hair often and seeing natural dirty white brushes will irk me. I wish they were brown. If they were self cleaning? Hell Yeah!
  5. Any contour kit: I am one person with only one skin tone. I need 1 contour shade, not 3. I have a great contour shade from smashbox. Unless you are a makeup artist, or regularly do other people’s makeup, you don’t need them either. What would be great though, would be if the single shades were sold separately, not just as refills, but properly packaged. Then I might be more adventurous.

That’s all folks? What are you not buying?

Essential and Nonessential Wayne Goss Eyeshadow Brushes

Happy Tuesday! You may recall my excitement about receiving my first Wayne Goss eyeshadow brush in my Beautylish Lucky Bag. Already in January it became a favorite and I bought a back-up. Since then I have expanded my collection, tested them and can tell you a little bit more about them.

A bit of background: Wayne Goss is a makeup artist who has his own YouTube Channel. He also has a line of handmade Japanese makeup brushes. They are superb quality and are mainly made from natural hair. Despite that, they are classified as cruelty free.

Wayne Goss No. 6 Blending Brush

First up my favorite. The No. 6 Brush is described as a blending brush. It is a flat paddle brush, with a width approximately as wide as the nail on my pointing finger. The bristles are 15 mm long. It is made of blue squirrel and is wonderfully soft. This brush is very versatile. I use it to pack the color on my lids, and flipping it over also for my crease (great for hooded eyes!) and also for blending. Once I am done I just clean it my swiping it across a color switch. I find this brush is essential, as it covers so many tasks and does it so very well.

Wayne Goss No. 4 Small Crease Brush

Next my No. 4 Brush, which is a small crease brush, again made of blue squirrel and very soft. The bristles are 15 mm long. If you have hooded or small eyes, this is great for precise crease work, also for cut creases. As it is so soft it works best on good quality shadows for soft blending. If you have a chalky shadow such as some of the Tarte clay shadows, this will not be the best brush for blending. I see this as essential for small eyes, nonessential for others.

Wayne Goss No. 3 Large Crease Brush

The No. 3 Brush is a somewhat larger crease brush, also made of blue squirrel. The bristles are 20 mm long. If you have smaller eyes and already have No. 4 you may not need this, but if you don’t this is a nice sized universal crease brush for eyes of all shapes. Similar to No. 4, this is very soft and will not do a good job of blending out stubborn shadows, it works best with good ones.I see it as essential if you don’t already have No. 4.

Wayne Goss No. 5 Detail Brush

The No. 5 is a small, tightly packed detail brush. Again, this is blue squirrel and can be used for all sorts of things including lipstick, concealer, eyeshadow detail work. I use this for smudging eyeshadow on my lower lash line. It has perfect stability and is so soft it is never scratchy. Given the versatility and precision I see this brush as being absolutely essential.

Wayne Goss No. 16 Blending Brush


I also have the No. 16 Brush, which is described as a blending brush. This is made of goat hair, making the bristles more stable. The bristles are 15mm long. This is a very unusual brush it is round and really quite fat, as fat as my little finger. This is the brush you can use on shadows that don’t want to blend. It’s width will shift product! It does a fantastic job and that. The size also makes it good for blending out concealer (but I prefer synthetic brushes for that). This is essential is you have stiff eyeshadows, non-essential if you don’t.

Of the brushes I have described, I highly recommend the No. 6 to everyone. It’s amazing versatile and very comfortable to use. Then I would suggest the No. 5 for detail work and one of the crease brushes.

I love my Wayne Goss brushes and really feel that I get better results, easier using them.

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4 Favorite Beauty Discoveries of January

The first month of the year is already over and I have made many beauty discoveries already. Here are the 4 that blew me away in January.

  1. Natasha Denona Eyeshadows. I got a palette in my Beautylish Lucky Bag that I wrote beautylishbluepurpleabout here. This then led me to buy another quint and one of the large 28 shadow palettes in blue/purple. These eyeshadows are amazing. I have not got around to trying every shade as I now have 38! They stay on all day and do not fade, they apply and blend flawlessly. Some critics have said that you can’t do full looks from the palettes as seemingly crease and transition shades are missing, but I strongly disagree. If you take the time to research how Natasha Denona uses the shadows (here is her YouTube channel) you will see that she is not conventional and that you can get a multitude of impactful looks from the palettes and will not be missing the matte browns you thought you needed. I love these shadows, for me they are gold. I was super lucky to save around 50 USD on my large palette as they are currently on sale on BeautyBay. Check it out here.
  2. waynegoss06The Wayne Goss Eyeshadow Blending Brush no. 6. I got this again in my Beautylish Lucky Bag and am so impressed I have bought another as back up. The brush is made of blue squirrel hair and picks up all types of shadows well. The brush is hand made and is cruelty free. Despite being called a blender brush, as a paddle brush it also does a great job of picking up product and packing it on the lids, it also blends wonderfully making this brush very versatile. For cleaning I just brush it over my color switch, as being genuine hair it should not be washed too often. With the color switch the pigment comes straight off. I use this brush along with one small detail brush for an entire look, making pretty much all my other eye brushes redundant. I bought the brush direct from Beautylish.
  3. I have been so busy lately that I have not found time at the weekends to get my gel nails tended to at the salon. Essie Gel Couture gel nail polish has been a godsend. Applied in 2 coats with a topcoat it remains in place with no chips the whole week.If you look carefully you can see the area on my nails where the gel has not been filled up, but hardly at all. Essie states on its website that it lasts two weeks, I have no doubt that this is true. I have only changed colors to change up my look so far, never because it was chipped or scratched. Amazing product. I get mine at the drugstore. These are my favorite shades:
  4. Big excitement in Germany. Douglas (our version of Sephora) has stepped up their drjartceramidingame and is stocking Dr Jart Korean Skincare. I immediately swooped in and bought their Ceramidin Cream. The cream advertises that it’s ceramides release moisture into the skin constantly working with time delay. OMG it’s true! Its also a non greasy, non heavy cream, that absorbs immediately leaving no greasy feel. During the day my skin feels constantly hydrated, no more pain face. Because of it’s non-greasy formula I expect this to be suitable for normal, combination and dry skin. A fabulous product, I have never experienced anything like this. A true star. In the US you can get it from Sephora here, in Germany from Douglas here.

That’s it folks, I did also discover some other superb products, but these were my true standouts!

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My Beautylish Lucky Bag arrived!

I got it! Only 2 days after my fellow beauty junkies in the US! My Beautylish Overseas Edition Lucky Bag arrived! This is sooo exciting! I was expecting shipping to Germany to take far longer and considering that it entered Europe in the UK and completed customs there before forwarding to Germany, that is an amazing timeline! Enough exclamation marks? I think not!

If you don’t know what I am talking about here my post that explains: Have you already received your Beautylish Lucky Bag?

I guess you would love me to leap to what I got and here it all is, for 75 USD I got: Becca Afterglow Palette (3 highlighters & 2 blushes) worth 39,50 USD and the Natasha Denona Quint Eyeshadow Palette 02 worth 48 USD, Wayne Goss 06 Blending Brush worth 25 USD, It Cosmetics Brow Power Universal Brow Pencil in Taupe worth 24 USD, 3 ounces of RCMA No Color Powder worth 12 USD and Clean Apothecary Brush Shampoo in Rose worth 15 USD, so in total goods worth  163,5 USD!

This is a great selection of products, there is not a single items I am not happy with, for me this is a very very lucky bag. Let me explain a little of the context, none of the brands retail in the country I live in. The Becca palette I have looked at online and coveted, but with the number of blushes I own I could not justify buying it, now I don’t need to! I have heard wonderful things about Natasha Denona eyeshadows. I have swatched this palette and the quality is amazing. These are not colors I would normally choose, but when I look at the colors individually there are 3 out of the 5 that I would normally reach for, seeing them all together in the palette and using the other two will push me to try out new things, so I really appreciate this. Having spent my youth in the 90’s, eyebrow products are pretty new to me, many times have I stood in front of the ABH display wanting to pick out a brow whiz, but I was never sure of the shade, now I have an IT Cosmetics pencil in taupe which for me is the perfect color, awesome!  I only own 3 good blending brushes, now with the Wayne Goss brush I own a Rolls Royce of blending brushes. The RCMA is held in very high regard and it supposed to be better for dry skin that the very expensive Laura Mercier I own, I am really looking forward to trying this! The brush cleanser is a lot of product and the quality gets great reviews a super useful addition. So I am totally thrilled with my lucky bag.

Over the last few days I have been watching a lot of unboxing videos. From seeing what was in the boxes Beautylish has done an amazing job of choosing products which have universal appeal. The way of running this lucky bag promotion has been very exciting for everyone who took part, the packaging and delivery have been outstanding. I am really impressed and will continue to support this company over the next year.

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Hooded Eyes are Beautiful! – Standard Techniques & Cat Eye

I have hooded eyes. I didn’t always have them, I am in good company with gorgeous ladies such as Catherine Zeta Jones, Jennifer Lawrence, Taylor Swift, Blake Lively, Kirsten Dunst and Gisele Bündchen.

I often read of frustration from people who have hooded eyes regarding how they can not do particular looks on their eyes. I get that; if you want to do something and can not it is disappointing, but there are also some looks that people without hooded eyes might not be able to pull off quite as well as people with hooded eye. Smokey eyes are particularly fabulous on hooded eyes. Apart from hooded eyes there are many eye shapes that suit or don’t suit different looks, a cut crease on a monolid rarely works, tight-lining the lower waterline on small eyes often doesn’t look great. This is where I think it helps to get back to basics and think about what eye makeup is about. It is meant to highlight and flatter your eyes. Instead of bemoaning lack of lid space, we can be pleased about not needing to have 3 colors perfectly blended in our creases, because nobody is going to see them, we can think more about how we can work with the extra dimension hooded eyes have.

One technique that looks super cool is the straight lined technique as explained and demonstrated here by Wayne Goss.

To open up the eyes, I can further highlight my tear duct area, either with a light eye shadow or a face highlighter. I can outline my lower lash line with eye shadow rather than tight lining my waterline with a dark color instead replacing that with a nude eyeliner.

To make the most of my lid space I can use I light shimmery color on it and steer clear of thick black eyeliner, opting instead for a thin line. But if you like thick eyeliner you can do a cat-eye with hooded eyes!  If you don’t believe me here’s Sam Chapman of Pixiwoo demonstrating it.

Happy New Year everyone! My hope is that everyone enjoys their beautiful eyes and makes the most of their unique shapes.

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