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Beauty over Forty

Keeping up appearances when age is just a number

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lactic acid

My Weekend Face Spa

I thought some of you might be interested in what a typical weekend of skincare looks like for me. I try to use the weekend to do some intense anti-aging work and get my skin ready for a week of makeup.

The weekend starts on Friday night, removing my makeup and cleansing with my Clarisonic (sensitive brush head), this is followed by Tone (Shiseido Ibuki Softening Lotion) and The Ordinary Lactic Acid at 10% topped with Philosophy’s Hope in a Jar which is also an exfoliant with an AHA complex. Lactic Acid at 10% induces collagen production, as well as being an exfoliator and drawing moisture into the skin.

The following morning I wash my face using Muji Anti-aging Moisture Soap, disinfect it and  microneedle my face with 0,5 and 1mm dermarollers. These are of course also disinfected. I then immediately apply Niod’s Multi-molecular Hyaluronic Complex, then The Ordinary’s Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. This stings a bit, I wait quite a while for this to absorb and top it with Dr Jart’s Ceramidin Cream. I then do nothing more to my face that evening, leaving everything on to heal. The microneedling combined with Vitamin C are major boosts for collagen production and the Hyaluronic Acid penetrates deeper than normal. Under the eyes I added squalane and Sebamed’s Anti-ageing Eye Cream.

The next morning I washed my nose (only my nose) and applied Caudalie’s Instant Detox mask to it. Once that is done after 10 minutes I washed it off and washed my entire face with my Muji soap. Then I applied Dr Jart’s Wrinkless Solution cellulose gel mask for 40 minutes. The skin is quite sensitive and absorbs all the nutrients due to the microneedling of the previous day. This is then topped with Dr Jart’s Ceramidin cream, the under eye area treated again with squalane and Sebamed.

In the evening I wash this off, tone and apply Lancaster’s Complete Anti-Aging Retinol in Oil, covered with  Lancaster Total Age Night Cream with a layer of La Mer on top for extra moisture as the skin just soaks everything up. Retinol again boosts collagen production.

I now the start the week with visibly smaller pores, and skin with better circulation and hydration levels.

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Sunday Riley Good Genes – A Lactic Acid Exfoliant worth 105 Bucks?

I am so conflicted writing this post. I can’t make my mind up, I’m thinking: but I like it, but what does it do? But I like it, what is in it? and awww shucks that’s a lot of money for 30ml.

Having written about Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Vitamin C Serum two days ago, and having tested Sunday Riley’s Good Genes, it made sense to apply the same assessment criteria to a product which is also enjoying a lot of hype and is really quite expensive.

The product is a serum with approximately 5% lactic acid in it which acts mainly as a chemical exfoliator. The concentration is (despite social media telling you the contrary) not particularly high, it is high enough to serve it’s purpose. It is designed so that everyday use is possible.

good-genes-treatment-1-940User experience: The serum comes out white, with a lotion like consistency. The scent is slightly citric, very much like lemon sherbet, probably imparted by the lemongrass extract it contains. I have read of complaints about the scent, I find it pleasant and refreshing.It absorbs immediately and my skin straight away looks very smooth, even toned and hydrated. It also feels very soft. The effects are instantly visible and I have never experienced such clearly visible results from a skincare product. But how does it work and why does my skin feel so good? Part of the answer can be found here: Epidermal and Dermal Effects of Lactic Acid I can not testify to seeing changes in fine lines, but I really loved how this made my skin look and also how the product felt on the skin. If you have read the link you will have seen that the 5% concentration really is not sufficient to enhance collagen production, in trials 10% and above was required to thicken the dermis (the layer below your top layer of skin – the depth where hair roots are). This means that the effects really are on the surface , not that that’s bad, it’s just good to know and also means that I will continue to use my 10% lactic acid products. Normal and dry skin will need to moisturize on top.

The effect of this product is also enhanced by the oils it contains, squalane is usually derived from olive oil these days and meadowfoam oil is awesome.  It is super high in anti-oxidants and is a light weight oil similar to jojoba oil in texture. It is a pretty expensive ingredient, one I have used myself in the formulation of haircare for fine hair (it does not weigh it down). It is very quick absorbing. Caprylic Triglyceride are esters obtained from coconuts & palms which combined with the silicone will be causing the silky feel. The other actives are mainly anti-oxidants.

Lactic Acid is not for everyone, some people react very sensitively to it. As the product is so expensive if you think it might be good for you, but do not want to take the risk you could try and get a sample, try a more affordable lactic acid product or even put kefir (a fermented milk product) on your skin and see how it reacts.

If you would like to experience the benefits of lactic acid but do not want to splurge, there are plenty other affordable options which also have great results.

I love this product, it makes my skin feel wonderful. But, there will be no long term anti-aging effects from it. Would I repurchase? I’ll only be able to answer that once the pump is empty, until then I’ll keep enjoying it 🙂

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Skincare gifts that will be well received :)

Skincare is a highly personal purchase. skin types and dermatological challenges vary so gifting skincare can be a tricky business. Here are my tips on getting in right.

If you already know the recipients skin type and challenges you can gift a really well put together set from brands such as Paula’s Choice or Murad. These brands group their products by skin issues. Murad currently offers gift sets as can be found on Sephora or Lookfantastic. Paula’s Choice has many localized international sites to shop from.

Beauty savvy recipients may already be using the brands already, in which case you already know they like them, and if not, may well have thought of checking them out, as they really are well known top-quality somewhat high-end brands.

If you don’t really know so much about the person’s skin, but assume that it is generally without issue and you know the recipient takes skincare seriously and appreciates quality, Drunk Elephant and Sunday Riley are almost guaranteed to be a safe bet.

Sephora has gift sets for Sunday Riley, whose Luna Sleeping Oil and Good Genes daily lactic acid exfoliator are cult. It also stocks gifts sets with Drunk Elephant’s Vitamin C Serum (often quoted as being the best on the market) and Framboise Glycoloc Acid Exfoliator. The Sunday Riley products are very popular for anti-aging for sensitive or dry skins, with Drunk Elephant’s  Framboise Glycolic more suited to anti-aging for normal skins.

Recent Skincare Regime (now it’s getting colder)

Now that Halloween has been and gone, there is a real chill in the air and my skin has started to suffer. It’s really just over the last year that my skin has traversed from normal to dry and this has led to a rather different skin regime. Read on if your skin is also starting to suffer with the weather change.

So here’s my morning routine during the week:

Post toning I usually layer my Mizon Hyularonic 100 followed by the Mizon Peptide 500 rexalineAmpoule serums (reviewed in my recent post about Korean Skincare).  On alternate days I might use my The Ordinary Vitamin C Serum (mentioned in my brand review), or I might layer the Ordinary Hyularonic with the Ordinary Buffet. For lazy days I sometimes use La Mer’s “The regenerating” Serum (but then I need a stronger moisturizer on top).

The the final layer is either Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream (for normal days), or La Prairie Complexe Anti-Age (for days where I need less moisture, don’t really like it, but it was expensive, so I will use it up) or La Mer’s Moisturizing Cream (for days where I need extra moisture).

Around the eyes I use either Rexaline Premium which I am really enjoying! Or “Kiehl’s “Powerful- Strength Line-Reducing Eye-Brightening Concentrate“( a recent TJ Maxx bargain). You may not have heard of Rexaline, it is allegedly produced by Sephora but is readily available in the German chain “Douglas” (we have no Sephora here). It really helps my eye area be really well hydrated, I own 12 eye creams :O and it wins hands down.

goodthingsIf after all that my skin is still dry!! I help out my foundation by adding a drop of Good Things Argan Oil Perfecting Facial Oil to it. Despite the name, the oil consists mainly of almond oil with just a tiny bit of argan, again this was a recent TJ Maxx bargain and it is awesome!

Night Time:

If you thought that was complicated, hmm it doesn’t get simpler at night. On any night I  will do one of the following.

Exfoliation night: the Ordinary 10% Lactic Acid topped with Philosophy’s Hope in a Jar.

Retinol Night version 1: the Ordinary 2% Retinol topped with the Ordinary Rosehip Oil

Retinol Night version 2: Lancaster Total Age Correction Retinol Oil topped with Lancaster Total Age Correction Night Cream

Retinol Night version 3: La Roche Posay Redermic R topped with La Mer’s Moisturizing Cream.

If I am not doing this I will do a night mask instead such as Etude House Moistfull Collagen Sleeping Pack, Origin’s Drink Up Intensive or Etude House Bubble Tea Night Pack.

Damn, I am too high maintenance, but it works for me. Maybe this helps someone ❤

 

 

 

Brand Review – The Ordinary by Deciem

2016-09-01-ordinary

I first came across “The Ordinary” in a You Tube Video by Wayne Goss.

At the time I was already full into the swing of researching retinol, micro-needling, hyularonic acid, AHA’s, niacinimide, petides etc.. I had already spent hundreds of Euros on well researched best-performing products. Fortunately I had not already spent thousands.

Deciem, owner of the brand has set itself a goal of disrupting the beauty industry. In The Ordinary they are offering known effective key ingredients at an astoundingly affordable price. Products I have tested include 2% Retinol, A Peptide complex, cold-pressed Rosehip oil, 10% Niacinimide with 1% Zinc, 10& Lactic Acid with 2% Hyularonic Acid, A stable suspension of 23% Vitamin C with 2% HA, 2% Hyularonic Acid + B5. The most expensive of these was the Retinol, cost 8 GBP! for 30ml. I have also recommended the Ordinary products to colleagues of mine, due to the low price, even if they did not like them, they would not be losing a lot of money. So far everyone has been blown away, by the effectiveness which is completely out of proportion to their price in the most unexpected way.

As a cost comparison, some of the retinol products I own, which are all highly effective!

Lancaster Total Age Correction Retinol Oil: 62,95 Euros for 30ml

The Ordinary 2% Retinol: 8,96 Euros for 30ml

La Roche Posay Redermic R: 21,99 Euros for 30ml

I obtained the products shipped (very cheaply) from UK to Germany from Victoria Health

I can only recommend that anyone try them – you have very little to lose!

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