The last days have been marked by outrage over Anastasia Beverly Hill’s new eyeshadow palette called “Subculture”. Expectations were high for this palette as the previous released “Modern Renaissance Palette” was one of the most popular palettes of last year. Announced as a sister palette to Modern Renaissance, Consumers and YouTube “Beauty Gurus” by and large expected it to be the same, albeit in a different color scheme. Quickly they discovered it is not.

There then ensued a plethora of “WTF” videos and consumers planning to return the palette before they had ever received it. This was then followed by videos theorizing about: Why???

If this is all news to you, I’d like to save you some time clicking through all the dramatic videos and direct you towards Stephanie Nicole’s which is the best informed one out there, her content will save me a lot of typing here.

So, how can you work with the palette and get good results?

  1. Prime and use a smooth powder shadow over the primer, do not have patches which are wet, they will grab pigment and wet pigment goes dark. The shade “Dawn” from the palette creates a good base from eyelid to brow bone.
  2. Use fluffy crease brushes (small, ideally natural hair if you have them, they hold color better). Flat shaders for packing color will not help, the reason why is coming up…
  3. When dipping into the shadow just let the tip of your brush graze the shadow lightly. These shadows are enormously pigmented, treat them like a pigment, if you get too much color on your brush you will have difficulties.
  4. Use your brush on your eyelid as if you are painting in light strokes, do not pack on pigment and then try to blend it out. It doesn’t work. Blending strokes will wipe the color off. Instead build color with light feathery strokes.
  5. If you are concerned about fallout use shadow shields or do your eyes first followed by your face makeup.

In the picture below which was my first attempt at using the palette I used a shadow shield, but with the progress made using as you can see dark shades, there was not a single speck of fallout using the technique I described above.


The brushes I used were a Wayne Goss no. 4 small crease brush, a Wayne Goss no. 5 detail brush and the best brush of all a small fluffy crease brush bought in German drugstore chain Rossmann for under 3 Euros by the brand “For Your Beauty”. This is quite possibly the best brush I have ever had (I have six of them). The ELF small crease brush will work just as well.