I am so conflicted writing this post. I can’t make my mind up, I’m thinking: but I like it, but what does it do? But I like it, what is in it? and awww shucks that’s a lot of money for 30ml.
Having written about Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Vitamin C Serum two days ago, and having tested Sunday Riley’s Good Genes, it made sense to apply the same assessment criteria to a product which is also enjoying a lot of hype and is really quite expensive.
The product is a serum with approximately 5% lactic acid in it which acts mainly as a chemical exfoliator. The concentration is (despite social media telling you the contrary) not particularly high, it is high enough to serve it’s purpose. It is designed so that everyday use is possible.
User experience: The serum comes out white, with a lotion like consistency. The scent is slightly citric, very much like lemon sherbet, probably imparted by the lemongrass extract it contains. I have read of complaints about the scent, I find it pleasant and refreshing.It absorbs immediately and my skin straight away looks very smooth, even toned and hydrated. It also feels very soft. The effects are instantly visible and I have never experienced such clearly visible results from a skincare product. But how does it work and why does my skin feel so good? Part of the answer can be found here: Epidermal and Dermal Effects of Lactic Acid I can not testify to seeing changes in fine lines, but I really loved how this made my skin look and also how the product felt on the skin. If you have read the link you will have seen that the 5% concentration really is not sufficient to enhance collagen production, in trials 10% and above was required to thicken the dermis (the layer below your top layer of skin – the depth where hair roots are). This means that the effects really are on the surface , not that that’s bad, it’s just good to know and also means that I will continue to use my 10% lactic acid products. Normal and dry skin will need to moisturize on top.
The effect of this product is also enhanced by the oils it contains, squalane is usually derived from olive oil these days and meadowfoam oil is awesome. It is super high in anti-oxidants and is a light weight oil similar to jojoba oil in texture. It is a pretty expensive ingredient, one I have used myself in the formulation of haircare for fine hair (it does not weigh it down). It is very quick absorbing. Caprylic Triglyceride are esters obtained from coconuts & palms which combined with the silicone will be causing the silky feel. The other actives are mainly anti-oxidants.
Lactic Acid is not for everyone, some people react very sensitively to it. As the product is so expensive if you think it might be good for you, but do not want to take the risk you could try and get a sample, try a more affordable lactic acid product or even put kefir (a fermented milk product) on your skin and see how it reacts.
If you would like to experience the benefits of lactic acid but do not want to splurge, there are plenty other affordable options which also have great results.
I love this product, it makes my skin feel wonderful. But, there will be no long term anti-aging effects from it. Would I repurchase? I’ll only be able to answer that once the pump is empty, until then I’ll keep enjoying it 🙂